Saturday, June 2, 2012

Getting ahead of yourself.

Sometimes we jump in with both feet, barely knowing how to swim and almost drown.

That was me the other day.

My friend had shared the "Persian" Coat currently displayed at the Metropolitan museum, thinking of recreating it, and I spent just 2 or 3 hours looking for more info, finding the Tilke illustration and supposed back views.
I then spent the entire next day making up the pattern and posting it. Mainly to get myself back in the habit of making and sharing patterns.
Yesterday I went back to research, and discovered some errors I had made.
Don't worry, it doesn't affect my pattern (much) and I am updating that post with the most pertinate info. Mainly that the back view IS NOT the same one currently at display at the Met. (as I had guessed)

I first tried to ask the Pinterest user who originally uploaded the images, but they responded with not remembering. (Thank you for responding, even if you didn't remember, dear Pintrest user.)
Then I tried a Tin Eye search, which got 0 responses from the color image, and 1 ONE for the B&W
Which lead me to Roxane Farbi's no-longer-there website.
So I tried another trick in my research toolbox the Internet Archive's Way-Back Machine. and LUCKILY it was there, though only a handfull of the images showed up. Link to Interenet archive's caption of the dead page. So I pined the other two images. (It seems like the color photo was also originally on this page as well, to bad the other pictures didn't show up!)

I then searched for more images from the book that was listed on the page
Riding Costume in Egypt, Origin and Appearance, Cacilia Fluck & Gillian Vogelsand-Eastwood (editors), Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands, 2004

So I searched for more images from that book Didn't find any images that fit the critera I was looking for. so I went back to just plain web search and came across this site which appears to be a wonderful collection of printed sources if you want to research this type of garment better.

The Title that popped out at me was
Soieries Sassanadies, Coptes et Byzantines V-XI Siecles; Lyon, Musee Historique des Tissus; 1986; pp. 1-21, 54-56.
Catalogue of Sassanian textiles at the Musee des Tissus in Lyons, France. They hold the Antinoe coat and very clear photos, including a close-up of the infamous trumpet sleeve, appear here.

BINGO a Museum!
So I went to the Musee des Tissus website and poked to see if any pictures were there, not holding my breath, and low I did find it!

Now I can't link directly to it, so you will need to follow these steps (and yes it opens up in a pop out window)
Collections of the Textile Museum
Second to the Left on Top
The Description says:
"Caftan or coat
Sassanid Persia, early 7th c.
Brushed cashemere wool cloth, figured samit, silk, tablet-woven braids in wool and linen.
Antinoƫ, Gayet excavations

These coats were certainly worn by Sassanids when they occupied Egypt from 619 to 629. Sassanid soldiers wore red coats and turquoise coats were worn by craftsmen and traders. Found by Gayet, at Antinoƫ, the coats were over a shirt and leggings. Sleeves were usually left floating behind. The wool was brushed with thorny plants (thistles?)"

I tried variying my search terms using Sassanid, Sassanian, Persian, Riding, Coat, Caftan, Antinoe.

I didn't come up with any more photos of the garments.

If you wish to continue the research, a good place to start is the

The Surviving Garments Project

Go to "Search Garment Descriptions"
about half way down you will see a box labeled "Site of Garment: Select site at which garment was found from the list."
Select Antinoe and you will see a list of the garments from this find.

Happy Researching!

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