A Valentines Surprise

Or How to make Simple Elegant Lingerie from just two yards of fabric, using just one seam and a hem!

I made this for Valentines day, in just two days, working on it for less than 6 hours total from design to finished. Most of it spent fighting my machine to do a rolled hem!

I am not sharing pictures of me wearing it, as that wouldn't be proper. My dress form is also in storage, so please accept these drawings I made, and forgive my inability to draw feet. After all, it is the costumes that are important!

This is a one-size garment, I am 5’4” with a 33” bust, so you may wish to enlarge the cut out template a bit for larger sizes.

Materials

• 2 yards of fabric: anything slinky. Not suitable for one way prints like stripes, but checks are okay. This is ample fabric and you will likely have leftovers, but it means you can get a large square out of any width up to 60”, and have room for the fabric being cut en evenly at the shop. Consider sheers and opaque, or go for two layers. If using two layers consider making the top layer from a slightly smaller square than the under layer.
• 1 ½ to 2 yards of ribbon 1-2” wide. Length depends on your underbust measurement and how long you want the tie ends to be.
•  Thread to match.
• Any embellishments you may want, beads and appliques would look lovely.

Cutting and Sewing Instructions

1. Cut fabric into a square, this will work with 45 to 50” material, 60” may be too long.
2. Make a paper pattern for the cut out as dimensioned. (Or larger)
3. Cut one corner off as shown, 24” along the sides, the last interior corner rounded off.
4. The back corner will drag on the ground, round it off for a different look.
5. Hem the sides with a rolled hem.
6. If using a single layer of fabric, hem the cut out as well.
7. If doing a double layer, as I did with my sheer fabrics, do not hem the cut out. Instead after hemming the outer square, French seam the interior. Lay both layers wrong sides up, with the top layer on top. Sew around the cut out.
8. Flip the top layer over the seam to the other side of the bottom layer and top stitch around the cut out, making a French seam.
9. Now all that sewing is done, it is time to attach the neck. To do this you need to try it on, pin some ribbon to one corner. Go to a mirror, preferably full length, wrap the garment around you and bring the corners up to your neck pin the other corner to the ribbon where you want it to hang, be sure to check your back view. I used 10.5”. You don’t need to use the ribbon, you could use the left over fabric to make the neck strap, I made a tube out of the fabric. You could also use jewelry chains, braided ribbon, be creative!
10. Last step put the garment on with the finished neck, wrap the ribbon around your under bust you can wear it like this, or sew it to the back opening. You can choose the leave it loose at front or stitch it all the way around.

Other style variations would be to have the neck tie cross over the back and become the torso ties, like this doll version.

Now what to do with the left over cut out?
How about making it into doll versions?
I made 3 quarter scale versions of this garment, here they are shown on some of my dolls and dress forms.

 I decided to have some fun and make each one different.


Left on Red White and You by Tonner is a rounded hem version. The black neck tie is fixed in place, as is the blue waist tie. this will only fit 16" dolls like the Tonner doll it is displayed on.

Center on a display form is a square version with cross over straps, this will fit on the widest variety of bodies.




















 Here I show it on both Piggy and Red, white and You to show how it is adjustable.



 

Right My Fair Piggy by Tonner wears a second square version, with the hems at the same length. this one has neck ties that will adjust to fit different bodies, the waist ties go through loops at the sides so there is adjust-ability there as well.

I also slightly gathered the back a bit, to see how that would affect the drape.

These are now up in my etsy shop. HERE

If you make up one of these in Human or doll size, I would LOVE to hear from you!

Thoughts on Pattern Envelope Backs

While the cover is what grabs our attention, the back of the envelope is an important part of the pattern, often giving us more "meaty" info after the cover image grab our attention.

Things you often find on the envelope back include:
Material list with suggested fabric types
Yardage amounts needed
Size charts
Written description of pattern.
Secondary illustrations

So for this post I pulled out patterns from my stash and took pictures of the envelope backs. The patterns are clothing and craft related, all in one post.

Once again I am only reviewing the content and layout of the pattern covers and not the actual patterns themselves.
Also some pattern makers have/may have/possibly will change the format of their pattern envelopes.

Lets start with the "Big Three" again, this time using Butterick 3721 as our example.

 Butterick is a "standard" size pattern envelope from the big three, which are roughly the size of a letter size paper folded in half.
The flap has the pattern number (twice) and size chart.

This pattern is called "Men's Historical Costume" and then described using style and fit descriptions.
Notions and fabrics are listed, and yardage amounts are on a chart.
Since this is a big pattern company it is also written in Spanish.
At the bottom of the envelop are the "flat" illustrations of the garments made with this pattern (coat and vest)

This is the format that most people are familiar with since they are readily available in all chain (and many independent) fabric stores.
Good points about this back
Bilingual (though that does effectively halve the amount of space that can be used.)
The flap is not hiding any data when it is folded out.
Issues I see with the back
"Historical costume" is not very descriptive about era, but that is what we normally get from the big three, they are not big on historical accuracy.
When Flap is folded in, the sizing chart is not visible.



Next up is Folkwear
This is pattern 211 Two Middies C 1980, my copy is an older one, so it may not be what Folkwear looks like today.
It is a large envelope (to hold letter size paper) and my flap is missing, so I can't tell you what info was there, if I had to guess I would say the pattern number.
On the left is the description, giving some historical data (1920's) and also saying that the middies are for both genders.A skirt pattern is also included, even though the pattern is tittled Two Middies.
Then there is a view of the back of the garments.
Last is the notions list
On the right is the sizing chart, which doesn't use measurement, but relies on standard sizing.
Then a yardage chart
Finished measurements are given and last is the Suggested Fabrics.

Good points about this back
Large illustrations of the back views 
The flap is not hiding any data when it is folded out.
History!

Issues I see with the back
No flat drawing of the front view.
Why is the suggested fabrics AFTER the yardage chart?

The one copy of an Ageless Patterns that I have was apparently sold in a plastic bag instead of paper envelope. What passes for the envelope cover is a piece of card-stock which serves as both front AND back covers.
It also serves as instructions.
Pattern number is at the upper left
A size chart is at the top,  then the pattern pieces are numbered.
Yardage is given as a range, since this is a multi-sized pattern. Seam allowance width is noted, then come the sewing instructions which reads more like the period description (I believe from Harpers Bazar?)


Good points about this back
Size chart is right there at the top.
Pattern pieces are listed, named and numbered.
Historical Description (though no source is cited)
Suggested fabrics is given. (drilling and a modern equivalent)

Issues I see with the back
You can't see it in the plastic bag with the pattern behind the "cover"
Is this is all the instructions there is? (mine is a used copy)

Kannik's Korner

I have a few of these in my collection, photographed is KK4303 Men's Trousers 1790-1810 which was sold in a plastic bag. I have an older pattern of theirs that was sold as a large paper envelope, the backside of that envelope was blank! (Remember what I said about pattern makers changing formats)

The pattern front is actually half of a Tabloid sheet of paper 11X17" and forms their instructions, so this isn't really a back cover, but it is what you see on the back, along with the pattern pieces.

This is the start of the Historical Documentation.

Good points about this back
Title, date, pattern number are right up top where they are not buried by the tissue pattern in the bag.

Issues I see with the back
No size chart, yardage chart, or other info that one would expect on the envelope back. In fact that info is a few pages in, after all the lovely historical information.

Laughing Moon
This pattern #109 is in the same envelope size as the Big Three.
On the flap is the size chart.
On the left is the title followed by the flat illustration of the garments included in this pattern then a description with some historical info which leads right into suggested materials and notions.
On the right is the yardage chart follwed by some more notions, last is the pattern makers info.

Good points about this back
Flats on the front and back view of the included patterns
Some historical info (more with the instructions)
Issues I see with the back
When Flap is folded in, the sizing chart is not visible.  When the flap is out, other information is blocked.
The way the historical info runs into the suggested fabrics could lead to some confusion.

 Rocking Horse Farm

This is #153 Waistcoat 1790-1820
Letter size paper in the horizontal format (Cover is in the more usual portrait orientation.) sold in plastic bag.

This pattern back is a bit unusual in that it tells you how many of each pattern piece to cut and seam allowance, those are normally found in the instructions.(The instructions are just the backside of this page.)
Good points about this back
Illustration (same as on front)
Some historical info (more with the instructions)
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.

Issues I see with the back
No size chart (it is on the front)

J. P. Ryan

This is the waistcoat pattern, and a used copy, the pattern is not numbered, J. P. Ryan may have given it a number now. Letter size paper sold in a plastic bag.
This pattern was sold i n single sizes and the size in this pattern was highlighted.
A bit of historical description and then a size chart, followed by fabric requirements and notions. Last is suggested fabrics.

Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
Some historical info
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.
Issues I see with the back
I would have loved to have seen a back view of the garments as none was on the cover front.

Truly Victorian
This is TV456 1856 Gathered Dress as is says right at the top on the pattern back. The pattern back is Letter size paper sold in a plastic bag. The cover is Legal sized and folds over the bottom to cover the back.
Underneath the fold over flap is the pattern makers info, so no important info is really hidden.
Starts off with historical info, then yardage requirements and notions, last is their unique sizing chart.


Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
Some historical info
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.
Their sizing chart is LOVELY
The fold over flap is a unique feature to TV patterns

Issues I see with the back
A small illustration would have been a nice addition.

Now to will leave the world of costume patterns and take a look at the craft patterns

Smallworks

Dragon pattern
Printed on letter sized paper
Tools and Materials list on the left
Tips  are included

Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
tips for making your dragon unique

Issues I see with the back
No yardage requirements listed (in instructions)







Marilyn Halcomb is an Australian designer whose patterns may be purchased at Dollmakers Journey and other places.
Since this is of Australian publication the paper size is different from American Leter, it is closer to 8 1/4 X 11 3/4" this pattern was sold folded in half, so that one sheet formed the front and back the back half contains materials list.

Good points about this back
Materials list and legal disclaimers

Issues I see with the back
Finished size of dragon is not mentioned (not on front either)

Elan patterns are available at SewSassy and other bra making suppliers.

This is B540, I am looking at.
The pattern cover front and back are printed on one letter sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back.
It is printed in a different orientation from the front, so that you must rotate to read the back when you flip it over.
Topis the pattern maker in the upper left, the upper right has the pattern number.
Next is the pattern description, then the materials list and yardage requirements.
Last is pattern makers contact info and legal disclaimers.

Good points about this back
Materials list, yardage amounts and legal disclaimers. pretty much everything one would want.

Issues I see with the back
No secondary images

Silver Lining Originals is a quilt pattern company Published by Make it Easy Sewing & Crafts, A Quilt Woman.com Company

This is the Lap-Lop Bunnies, a paper pieced quilt pattern
The pattern cover front and back are printed on one letter sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back, inside of a plastic bag.
Top is a description, next come fabric yardages, since this is a quilt pattern, the use of quilting cottons is assumed, so the only fabric suggestions is in color.
Lower left is the publishers information, lower right is the designers information, then a barcode.
Copyright is on the bottom


Good points about this back
Everything one could expect and a barcode!

Issues I see with the back 
None for a quilt patten.

Needlesongs by Carol Bruce is a quilt pattern company
This is the Dream Castles Fusible Applique pattern that I am looking at.
The pattern back is half of a letter sized sheet in a plastic bag.
Starts off with pattern title, then description, which includes size. (Which was not on front.)
Materials list and yardages, stating "100% cotton, prewashed and ironed."
Copyright and contact information is on the bottom.

Good points about this back
Everything one could expect, well laid out.

Issues I see with the back 
None for a quilt pattern




Judi's Dolls by Judi Ward
This time I am looking at 9-12 Month Size Baby.

The pattern cover front and back are printed on one legal sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back. The front has a color photo and the pattern is copyrighted 1978.

Starts off with the Materials list, which includes yardages and then runs into the description

Good points about this back
Materials list and yardage is there as is a description of the pattern. (sized to fit real baby clothes)

Issues I see with the back 
There isn't a space between the materials list and the description, it all flows together down the page.

In conclusion

And there we have it, I have reviewed costume, and craft patterns. I think I have a better idea of what is important to me, and how much format means to a buyer.

In the end, What goes on the pattern back is what the maker feels is important, What do you as a purchaser want to see on the back?

More thoughts on pattern covers

In the last post on this subject, I covered Corset Patterns, this time around we are going to look at Craft patterns. So I pulled out my stash of patterns that I have purchased over the years.

I covered Simplicity in the last post, and since the format of their pattern covers doesn't change much, I don't feel like I need to go over them again.

I do however state that this post is covering the visual and descriptive aspects of the PATTERN COVER only and is not a review of the patterns themselves. I have used some of these, and not others.

Melinda Small Paterson of Smallworks has a couple of Doll and Dragon Patterns.

Source: etsy.com via Corsetra on Pinterest

The pattern cover is printed in full color on Letter sized paper.

Like many craft pattern makers, the pattern is named, not numbered.


At the very bottom of the page is the makers name, company, and all contact information.
Good points about this cover
More than one large color photos of the finished project.
A finished height and length is given for this dragon, it is large, and there is no sense of scale in the pictures. 
There is a small image of what the pattern shapes are
Issues I see with the pattern cover
No skill level on this pattern, but an approximate time to completion is given.(It really is a rather involved and advance pattern) An approximate time to completion is given.

Pam Grose doesn't have a website, but her patterns can be purchased at clothdollpatterns.com and other places

In this photo I show both the Basic instruction book (right) and Basic Lady Pattern (left)
The instruction book has a B&W illustration, the pattern has color pictures printed on regular weight paper applied to a B&W pattern cover. Mine are loose at this point, but they may have originally been glued on.
My copies are older and Pam Grose may have updated her format since then.
The pattern cover is topped with the makers comapny name, space is left for the photos and at the bottom is the makers contact info.

Good points about this cover
 Color Photos on the pattern (loose)
The maker has developed a good pun out of her name for her pattern company.

Issues I see with the pattern cover
There is no description of the doll, no height measurements. No skill level either. (I have not made it up)

Gail Wilson makes dolls that have an old world charm, some may even be suitable for reenactors.

Source: etsy.com via Corsetra on Pinterest

Left is a pattern sold on etsy, you can see that the parts of the kit are visable below the "pattern cover"

This pattern in it's plastic sleeve includes fabric and other tools, the pattern cover is more of a fold over flap.

The front of the flap has an illustration and info about the doll. The size of the doll and it's inspiration are on the pattern cover.

In my collection I have Historical Folk Doll Kit 7, so I have unfolded the flap. On the back is the artist' bio, legal disclaimers, and website.

Good points about this cover
The fold over top works with showing off the kits parts.
Doll size is stated

Issues I see with the pattern covera lot of people like seeing color pictures, but the illustrations do work very well for it being a historical doll.





Judi Ward is a doll artist who was well known before the internet.
I have in my collection a pattern by her titled Baby Bottoms
This pattern is printed on Legal sized paper and was sold folded in half, thus it has that crease in the photo.

Since Judi has been selling patterns fro many decades several of her older ones were just illustrated with B&W drawings. This one has small color photos as well as the illustrations. It is very likely that her newest designs feature photos more prominently.

This particular pattern doesn't have a finished doll size listed on the pattern cover, but many of Judi's other patterns do.

Artist info and contact is printed just below the pattern name and description. which would show when folded. On the bottom is more descriptive writing.

Good points about this cover
 Color photos. Lovely illustrations. cute descriptions

Issues I see with the pattern coverThe color photos are small, they look like an addition to the way Judi used to do her pattern covers with the lovely illustrations she does. No finished size is on the pattern cover.
The way the pattern was folded and packaged, the top photo was split in half, not the best layout choice.


Marilyn Halcomb is an Australian designer whose patterns may be purchased at Dollmakers Journey and other places.

Since this is of Australian publication the paper size is different from American Leter, it is closer to 8 1/4 X 11 3/4" this pattern was sold folded in half, so that one sheet formed the front and back the back half contains materials list.
The pattern cover has black and white border with a color photo (on photo paper) glued in the center of it.
Top is the name, which includes a small bit of description (baby dragon)
Below the photo is the Artist name and contact info.


Good points about this cover
 Color Photo of Project

Issues I see with the pattern cover
No info on size is on the front cover (or the back for that matter)
No description of the project.
The surrounding illustration may seem busy to some buyers.

Musings on Sewing Pattern Envelope Cover Front

I have been thinking of Packaging lately, maybe it is the fact that Christmas is coming up and I enjoy wrapping gifts.

Pattern covers should fulfill a couple of requirements:
1. Clearly show WHAT the pattern is
2. Be eye-catching

There are of course several key little things like

• Sizes
• Description
• Skill level
• Copyright
• Pattern name/ number
• Pattern Designer/Publisher

There is also a whole other list of things often found on the BACK of the envelop, that I am not going to talk about in this post. Partly because, when selling e-patterns, there is no envelope back!

I decided to take a look at Historical  Pattern Companies and see who they laid out the covers of their patterns.
Before I go any further I want to say I am looking at the COVERS only, and these opinions are mine and have no relation to how well the instructions or pattern pieces actually are.  I have used some of these companies patters, and never seen others at all. I did not pull up every Pattern company out there, just thous that I thought were examples of different styles, so  not all the costume pattern companies are represented in this discussion.

Let's start with Simplicity as our representative of the "Big Three" which actually contains Burda, Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity, and Vogue. these patterns are carried by many chain and independant stores in America and internationally.

What's the first thing we see? The color photo showing both the front and the back view of the garment. (I purposefully picked a corset pattern since I will be doing corset patterns)
We also see SIMPLICITY and the pattern number across the top.
Down at the bottom we see the designer's name Designs by Kay
As well as the barcode and web address for simplicity patterns.

Does it catch our eye? Yes it has a corsets, and corsets catch my eye.
Do we know who made it? Yes Simplicity is hard to miss, but Kay is small, and could be hard to see if the image is a thumbnail in a catalog or on the internet.
Do we have a description? No, that is all on the back, per Simplicity.
Do we know what is included in this pattern? We can assume the corset is, as it is prominently featured, but are the other undergarment? (Turning the pattern over would tell us yes.)
Do we know the size? Actually yes, it would be on the front of this pattern but has been photoshoped out, it is also on the back.
Pattern number is right on top, so it is easy to find it in the pattern drawers.
Skill level? Not really, Simplicity only labels the "Easy" ones.
Copyright is on the back.

Good points about this cover
Large color photo of garment on real human. Pattern number is up top as is sizes. this makes it easy to find the right one in the pattern drawers.

Issues I see with the pattern cover
No Description: the historical costumer would like to know the rough time period of the corset  Also it isn't clear from the pattern cover that the undergarments, not just the corset, are included in the pattern.
In a thumbnail the light colored corset blends into the other white undergarments and background.

Next up is Laughing Moon  Their corset pattern Silverado/ Dore was the main staple corset pattern for a number of years, many have used it and loved it.

We see the color picture of the corsets on the dress form first, then we see the text above it which gives us most of the information

Laughing moon uses a logo with their name on their patterns.
The pattern number is on top, just bellow it is the pattern name and description, followed by sizes and skill level.

What is the pattern? Corset and under garments as pictured and described.
Is it eye catching? The red corset sure is.

The size including cup size is on front, with a detailed size chart on the back.
Pattern number is right on top, so it is easy to find it in the pattern drawers.
Copyright is on the back.

Good points about this cover
Large color photo of garment on Dress From. Pattern number is up top as is sizes. this makes it easy to find the right one in the pattern drawers.
Clearly states that the pattern includes the undergarments.

Issues I see with the pattern cover
Description:is a bit wordy, also a bit overreaching that these 2 corset styles would span 1837 to 1899 any serious costumer knows that there are changes that happen in those 60 years! The patterns could be modified to fit those years, but right out of the envelope they will not.
In a thumbnail the light colored corset blends into the other white undergarments and background.
 

Truly Victorian is a pattern company Specializing in the Victorian are and many costumers have a lot of respect for their patterns.

This pattern features an illustration rather than a photo, this reads clear, and cuts down on printing costs. Since no other garments are included in the illustration, a buyer would not think that they were included in the pattern.

Company, Pattern name (note it is TV110 so that when it is carried by another pattern seller, the identifying number is right there)
The corset is dated 1880's right on the pattern cover.
All sizes are included, but the size chart is on the back.
Last is copyright at the bottom.

Good points about this cover
Large clear reading illustration. Pattern number is up top Corset is dated

Issues I see with the pattern cover
Sizes are not on cover

Reconstructing History is a prolific pattern company covering a very wide time period.

This cover has a colored illustration. RH does all their pattern colors as illustrations, the colored garments are what the pattern is for, so while a whole outfit may be drawn, only the garment that is colored in the illustration is in the envelope. A very interesting way to do a cover illustration.

Good points about this cover
Large clear reading illustration. Pattern number is up top Corset is dated

Issues I see with the pattern cover
Sizes are not on cover

Ageless Patterns reprints Victorian and later period patterns that were published in magazines. The reputation as a company is varied. Some love them, some actively do not! Luckily we are only looking at the cover today so none of those arguments will come to play.

The cover is illustrated with the original pattern illustration from the period source. Sometimes these illustrations were cut off by another garment and Ageless has removed the other garment so the illustration can look a little strange.

Good points about this cover
Large clear reading illustration. Pattern number is up top Corset is dated.Size is listed on cover

Issues I see with the pattern cover
Some of Ageless covers have the original images cropped weirdly since there was another garment in front in the original period image.



Mantua Maker is another historical costume pattern company

Mantua Maker is another pattern company that uses illustrations instead of photos for their pattern cover.
In this example we can see there are a few style variations in this pattern by the"flats" shown around the main illustration. The size chart is right there, as is the date.

Good points about this cover
Illustration shows variations. Pattern number is there Corset is dated.Size is listed on cover

Issues I see with the pattern cover
The pattern number is not op top and rather small.
The size chart being on top is a bit distracting.






Atelier Sylphe Drafts Corset patterns for Originals in their Private Collection.

This is the image used in online shops to sell the pattern, not really a pattern cover so to say.


Good points about this cover
Illustration shows seam lines clearly, photo shows the original corset very well.

Issues I see with the pattern cover
This isn't really a pattern cover, so there is no size info on the image, but everything is there in the listing.

King & Company is a newer corset pattern company

This is the cover for their paper pattern. The cover is a nice sepia illustration of both the front and back of the corset. This pattern is Named rather than numbered.

Good points about this cover
Illustration shows seam lines clearly, both front and back view is shown.

Issues I see with the pattern cover
There is no size info on the image, but everything is there in the listing. The pattern is Named rather than numbers, which could lead to issues if it was every carried and sold by another company.






Harlots and Angels is a newer pattern comapny

This is the cover for their paper pattern. The cover has a nice boarder and photos of both the front and back of the corset. This pattern is Named rather than numbered.

Good points about this cover
Multiple photo angles, both front and back view is shown. Sizes are shown on pattern cover. Link at bottom

Issues I see with the pattern cover
The pattern is Named rather than numbers, which could lead to issues if it was every carried and sold by another company.
some might find the boarder pattern fussy.







So in the end....