Monday, January 23, 2012

Mock Tunics for 12th night.

Me in my vast wisdom ended up really crunched for time to make my children clothes for 12th night this January.
I ended up making my boys a very quick and dirty tunic. so quick and dirty that they were made in 1 day from 1 yard of 60" fabric, fits the boys who are wearing size 3-5 and I actually expect them to last for another year!

Here is a diagram of how they were cut out.
How to cut out:
Fold fabric across the width, so the selvage is at the hem of the tunic. yes this means the shoulder is on the fold.
Put a yard stick on the corner, angle it so that it reaches a point 7" in along the fold. Now take a square and place it along the fold and move it 1" out wards from the angled yard stick. this will make the sleeve set into a square seam, rather than an angled one. Cut this as a slight curve, not an angle.
for other side seam, put the hem point at 28" and the shoulder at 21", then angle it out 1" again.
This is the body piece.

The sleeves are 14" long and about 7" at the cuff. the easiest way to make them is to fold the fabric in half along the fold after cutting out the body.
The gusset is about 4" square.

The neckline is cut 5" wide, 1" deep in back and 4" deep in front.

This includes 1/2" seam allowance.

For making up in the quick and easy way, French seam by machine, use the selvage as a hem. Finish neckline by making a narrow hem by hand, I also like to do the cuff and hems by hand as it makes them less obviously machine made.

Right side out, (wrong sides together)first sew 1 side of the guset to the sleeve using just under 1/4", make sure to stop on the corner, do not go to the end of the gusset.
Then sew the other side of the gusset to the sleeve, then sew the sleeve seam.
Turn inside out and french the seams in the same order using a 1/4" seam allowance.
Then mark the shoulder point on the sleeve and the body. Right side out, (wrong sides together) sew from the gusset point around the sleeve, then the side seams.
Turn inside out and french the seams in the same order using a 1/4" seam allowance.

If you would rather flat fell the seams, the method would be similar to that I showed on my regency chemise, but without the sleeve being gathered at the shoulder.

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