Thursday, December 6, 2012

SPP 2009 starting from the skin out

While I was still undecided on the dress fabric and trimming, I was working on the undies.

First I had to determine WHAT the under layers were going to be before I looked for patterns. Anyone who knows anything about Victorian clothing knows a corset was worn, but there are other layers as well. The corset was worn over the chemise. Drawers were often worn as well. there is some debate on where the waistband of the drawers was worn in relation to all the layers.
In the end the list of under layers was from skin out: Chemise, Drawers, Corset, Hoopskirt, Petticoat, Corset Cover. The Corset Cover was a necessity since the waist/blouse is sheer.

Fist step is measurements

It is difficult to measure a doll as their waists are too narrow to get a tape measure around so I cut a strip of 1/4" twill tape and marked the half inch on it.

Bust7 1/24 1/43 1/4
Under Bust5 3/432 3/4
Waist4 1/22 1/42 1/4
Hip5 3/42 3/43
B-W1 3/41 1/21 1/2
The total side length of the corset can not be over 2 1/2, or else it interfers with the hip joint, the front can't be longer than 3, same for the back..
I jumped right into making the corset first, after all corsets are my favorite! I made the pattern to fit closed so that there would be a bit of a gap when worn over the chemise.

I choose this 1868 pattern by Lavinia Foy even though it was a bit late for the dress style.
Source: via Corsetra on Pinterest

US Patent 79647

The chimes and drawers were made from Mrs. Clark of the Sewing Academy's free instructions, with some alterations for use on a doll.

Next post will cover the patterning and making of the corset.

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