SPP 2009 Making the Chemise and Drawers

I used Elizabeth Stewart Clark's free instructions for drafting the Chemise and Drawers. I highly recommend them
Chemise
I used Mrs. Clarks' instructions to get the size. Since my doll is aprox 1/4 scale, I had some fiddling to do. I ended up cutting the body of the chemise as a trapezoid like my original 1830's chemise.
I wanted a shaped yoke that is commonly seen instead of the flat band. So I covered my doll in plastic wrap and masking tape. I then laid the scaled up pattern for the ball gown bodice on the doll and marked the neckline. I only wanted to make one chemise that would work for both bodices. The sleeves are based off of Lot 408 of the Tasha Tudor Auction.

I loved the way they over lapped and this would work great under a ball gown bodice. To reduce bulk, the sleeve hem is actual cut on the selvage, this is a trick I use often to my advantage in doll costuming.

This photo shows Elphaba in tape to make the yoke patterns for the chemise and drawers

The yoke is on the bias like my original 1830's and all seams are felled by hand, though many of the seams were sewn on the machine.

this image shows the patter pieces for the chemise and drawers.

 

Drawers
Once again I used Mrs. Clarks' instructions. Except instead of a flat band, I once again taped my doll for a pattern for a shaped yoke. The drawers fasten with a button in front, the seams are felled to the outside like on human sized.

 They eventually stretched enough to be worn over the chemise.

The Chemise, Drawers and Corset were finished in the first 5 days I was sewing