A NEW Direction

I am taking my pattern line in a new direction. This change was brought about by some feedback and instruction that I recieved this month.

I took a couple of workshops through my local Score location covering many topics from How to Start a Business to Social Media Marketing. It was a lot to absorb in a small amount of time and many days I returned home with a brain that was turned to mush. 

By the end of the last workshop I had decided that my market, was actually two markets: Historic Costumes and Plush Toys. While there is some overlap, I am willing to bet that most of you who are reading this fall more into one camp than the other. While I had debated with myself periodically for years about this issue, I never really wanted to separate the my work into two categories, because frankly it means more work for me, I have to have two of just about everything in order to have the two pattern lines. I also never came up with a name for the soft toy patterns I liked.

That is until the other night, after the last workshop on marketing.

Introducing Sew Pandi

I am moving all the plush and craft patterns over to Sew Pandi, also any modern styled clothing would be featured there.

Corsetra Designs will remain for the corsets and historical costumes.

There may be some cross over too, only time will tell what I accomplish.

One of the biggest reasons for this change is to control my image better. If you Google “Corsetra” a good percentage of what you will get back (that is in English) is directly linked to me. However Corsetra.com is NOT me, and I would recommend against visiting the site.*

If you Google “Corsetra Designs” you will get references to me exclusively.

I intend to market my corset patterns to the historical costume community, and many of those in that field do not overtly sexualize the corset, knowing that it is just another aspect of the whole package.

Doing an image search for corsets on the internet can be a dangerous place, many images will not be considered safe for work/children . This NOT good for a line of soft toy patterns DESIGNED for children!

So with that in mind I have decided that Corsetra Designs is not a good name for the toy patterns. I LOVE the name, and my logo and that  is not going anywhere. The Skeleton Corset Pattern is still going on, and will be released this Spring/ Summer. 

What does this mean for YOU, my followers? Well it means you now have a choice, and having choices is good! You can now choose to follow Corsetra Designs, or Sew Pandi, based on your interests. I have already duplicated my social media outlets, so you can follow  Sew Pandi on Facebook, and Pinterest.

I will be moving over  the toy and doll posts to Sew Pandi from here, so those posts will become links to the content on Sew Pandi. 

For the rest of April I will be duplicating some info on both outlets,  staggered on different days, so hopefully I won’t annoy you.

I learned some of how Facebook works in the Social Media Marketing workshop. I will be implementing some new techniques. I can tell you that the algorithms that Facebook uses to determine how many of your fans it will show your posts to is complicated. certain times of day work better, the more people who see the post, the more it will show them to others. The more YOU like a post and otherwise engage with that page, the more you will see that page’s posts. So if you like a page, engage with them! Just like a real-life relationship between friends, if you don’t do your part to be there for your friends, the less likely you are going to be friends for the long term. It doesn’t take much to “Like” a post.

I will be releasing a BRAND NEW pattern over on Sew Pandi later this week, I hope you come follow the website and the Facebook page.

*They appear to sell cheap corsets, most likely made over seas, probably by very low paid workers. Having never owned a mass produced corset, I would guess that any corset bought from these type of places will not hold up well to wear, and likely be uncomfortable. I am a big fan of custom made corsets if you are going to wear them.

End of 2013 Post

As we wrap up the year, I thought it would be good to go over what has happened this year.

Top 5 posts of 2013

The top blog post of 2013 was the End of February post  where I talked about the poll results and the direction I was hoping to be headed. Funny that 10 months later I am in the SAME position, sick, needing to organize my sewing space, and start on those projects! 

Introducing the pattern poll was a very popular post, which isn't surprising as I posted a link to it on several forums.
 
I posted a who series on pattern formats, but this post on  (paper) Pattern Covers was very popular. I took a look at other patter types in other posts

With slightly less views was this entry on Pattern Envelope Backs.

In fifth place for view numbers was the post where I announced which of the two corset patterns won the poll. The Skeleton Corset came in first place, in case you didn't know.



Now for the 5 least popular blog posts of 2013, Have you seen these? Why not?

The very least viewed post, when I created an image for sharing about the pattern poll.

Balancing Steps was the post right after the introduction of the poll. In this post I talked more about where I was at than any creating happening.

Food, not Sewing, yes I blogged about cooking once, I am not much of a cook, so there will not be many of these posts at all. This was also the first thing I made from something I pined on Pinterest. I eat Gluten Free and this is still a recipe that I use on a regular basis.

My most recent post has not had many views, likely due to the holidays and the fact that not many would be interested in making a pair of wings for a purchased stuffed pony. I am pleased to report that even though Making Twilight into an Alicorn is not a top post of the year, my Child is very happy with it an that is all that matters.

Spiral Ornaments on my Tree had only a handful of views,  Probably due to the holiday season. It was only my second pattern release.

Well Here is to New and Better things in 2014, I think I need to go tuck myself back into bed now.

Hippo Birdie to ME

I am celebrating my birthday this week!
Earlier in the month I was laying in bed thinking about my last birthday party a few years ago. My dear friend had brought Kinder Happy Hippo Cocoa Biscuits (cookies) and I teased her about not bringing anything bird related and then it could have been Hippo Birdie, which many of you will have ran across on the internet as a birthday greeting (corruption of Happy B-day?)

Inspiration struck and I got out of bed and pull out some visual dictionaries and animal drawing books. I found How to Draw Animals by Jack Hamm to be particularly helpful as it covered hippopotamus.

I drew a rough sketch of what my Hippo-Bird mashup should look like with seam lines and then went to bed, having formed the plan of releasing the pattern as a birthday celebration.

A few days later I did a quick internet search to see if Hippo-Birds were commonly illustrated, and satisfied that there wasn't already an obvious plush pattern on the market, I drew up the pattern pieces and made my mock up, using old sheets.

Mock up 1, which I still have, and will not show you the pictures of was a success for the most part, I did simplify a few things. Out of the 11 pattern pieces, only 1 was unchanged.

I then sewed up the second one out of grey cotton, noticed a few minor tweaks were needed (dart length, seam alignment) I then put my pattern into CAD and cleaned it up. I then scaled it down to be 2/3 of the original size and made up the second one in blue.

Monsieur requested a mustache, I couldn't deny him, it being Movember and all.After making up several felt mustache shapes (too fake, Snydly Whiplash, Kaiser), my husband decided on the final shape and I gave Monsieur his mustache and bow tie.

I then wanted to see how the pattern would translate to Polar Fleece, so I made up Prudence.
There are a few differences in construction between the cotton and fleece versions. The fleece, being a knit sculpts better, however being thicker means that the ears have to be single layer. I also used safety eyes on Prudence to check a different look.

Pattern is now available on Etsy. Also available on Craftsy


One of my favorite things about this pattern is the nostrils! They are created using a tuck dart as a starting point so they truly have depth to them.

All the while I was making these Hippo Birdies I was planing how I would stage the photos.

I used Abby Glassenberg of While She Naps' Tutorial on making Mini Felt Bunting, while at the fabric store I looked for cake or birthday fabric but all I found was some ribbon, which I bought since it went so well with the dots I was going to use for the cupcake wrapper. I made felt party hats, and then the girls got aprons. I also made up a cupcake complete with pink icing and a colorful wraper. Decided it needed a candle as well.

The cupcake is not included in the pattern, it will be part of a forth coming pattern for play food.

Know someone with a birthday coming up and have no clue what to give them? The Hippo Birdie just might be the thing.Pick it up on Craftsy or Etsy

Hippo Birdie to ME

Pattern Digitization Service

I have decided to offer up my services at pattern digitization.

At this point I am only available to do craft and small accessory patterns  that are scanned in and in JPEG format. Patterns must be on regular size paper and with no pattern pieces overlapping.

The rest of my terms are found here

Here is an example of the differences you will see in a hand drawn to digitized pattern.


This is a pattern for a simple doll I made back in 2004. She was a gift and I never got photos for her.
On the Left is the early pattern I shared with words added in a photo editing program as my handwriting is lacking. On the Right is the recently Digitized pattern.

This is a scan of the two printout and there was no photo editing besides cropping!


It took me an hour to do the whole page, a lot was used up in the facial feature details and text.

I can do several line types, solid, dashed, dotted. different line widths, different line colors. I can use several fonts and letter can come in any height.

Adding seam allowance is a breeze in CAD

If your pattern is too large to fit on the page, I will reconnect the pattern in CAD, then break it back into pieces that fit on a page, this will insure that the piece lines up nicely.

More info can be found in this document, Please download and read thoroughly.

If you are interested I have created a listing on Etsy at an introductory price. Price is PER PAGE so order as many pages as your pattern is.


Since I never had good pictures of the doll, I am making her over, with additional wardrobe and hair styles!
Here is a sneak peek.

I hope to uploaded the doll pattern on Craftsy for free, I will includ both the hand drawn and Digitized patterns so that you can see the difference. You will be able to overlay the pages and looking at how they line up or vary. The biggest difference besides the facial details is that the body is now symmetrical! I originally shared this pattern on a yahoo group I was moderating (now defunct.)

I have a mailing list for those who are interested in this service, It will feature patterns that I have digitized and special offers as well as other useful information for the pattern designer.  You can SIGN UP HERE


Bonus image of the CADing process

Again my TERMS and SERVICES can be found here and the Etsy Listing is HERE

More Market Research and Holiday Planning.

I recently joined and online group for stuffed animal/plush/softies designers looking to improve/sell their patterns. It is still new, but so far the conversations have been good, kind, and helpful.

So I was spurned on to purchase a few patterns from popular designers, and am planning to make them up as holiday gifts. (with $ i made selling on etsy, no less!)

I then went on another free pattern download spree and have been looking at lots of patterns this past week.

Craftsy is a goo place to look for free patterns. they carry quilt, clothing, craft and toy patterns, as well as knitted and crochet and other goodies.

Modern patterns are not as confusing, most of the time.

In looking at all these patterns I learned a few things about myself as a PATTEN USER.

1. I like pretty first pages (covers) that DON"T smack of having been made in MS Word.
2. I don't care for step by step color photos.
3. I don't care for first page (cover) that is in landscape format, especially if it is the PDF in a portrait layout....

The reason WHY I like/don't like these things is that I PRINT OUT MY PATTERNS and then store them in sleeves in a binder.
1. is just an attractiveness/ professional-feel thing, and I know that I shouldn't judge a book by it's cover, but it is the first thing I see when opening the PDF, and my binder.
My first patterns were made in MS Word, and I am now playing around with other software to try and insert more personality/attractiveness.)
2. INK, it comes down to ink, which as we all know is money. I often don't print the pages, but instead read them on my computer. Now my computer is on the opposite side of the room from my sewing machine and if one is on, the other is off. Now I know many will disagree with me, but I see that I will NOT being doing photos for EVERY step, but just those that need it. I like B&W illustrations, and can do them for most things. Maybe I should look into doing both format for my customers? OPINIONS?
3. I know WHY patterns are done in this format, it is a common format for printed patterns to be sold in. and if I ever do manage to get my patterns in local stores I may just follow suit, but you won't find my PDF's done in that format.

I downloaded a lot of free patterns, discarding immediately those that were just a pattern page and few words on how to, or worse, a link to a tutorial. That isn't too helpful when you are just studying patterns, not actually interested in making the project.

Yes I did download several patterns that I will never make up, patterns for dolls, animals, quilts, clothes, even though I may not ever produce a quilt pattern, I can learn about what I would want my pattern to look like my looking at them.

Have you spent time looking at PDFs? what do you like/dislike about the ones you have seen?

I would recommend heading over to Craftsy and taking a look, keep the upcoming holiday season in mind, try something new.

Off to the sewing machine now, the fake fur is calling to me.

Market research is never ending, so don't expect me to stop posting about it anytime soon. :)

A question on geometric pattern pieces

We will file this under Market Research.
Audience Participation is highly encouraged!

I have been thinking about what to do about large rectangular and square pattern pieces in my patterns.

The Big 3 ALWAYS include all pattern pieces, which annoys me when you are dealing with large rectangles for say an 1860's skirt. (I would just measure the pattern pieces, or better yet ME and then cut the appropriate widths)

When it come to printing out a downloaded pattern, large rectangular pieces can be wasteful of paper, ink and tape.

So I am currently leaning towards NOT including rectangular or square pattern pieces in my patterns. (circles and non right angle triangles can be difficult to make, so I will include those)

Instead I will mention the sizes needed to be cut in the layout, instructions and on the pattern pages.

Do you think this would be too confusing for a beginner?

I am not talking about anything quite as complicated as the below image, which requires working in Nails (2 1/4") and more math, but of cutting a rectangle A long and B wide (including seam allowance)



Workwoman's Guide by A Lady 1840  Plate 6 concerning the making of Women's Shifts.on Google Books

Time and Usefullness

I have been working on a few projects this past couple of weeks, like many creative individuals I always have more than one iron in the fire.

One of my projects I have been keeping accurate notes on the times I have spent on it, yes I am recording the minutes I have worked on it. I have never done this before and I have found it interesting how long some tasks take and how quickly others are done.
At this time I can't tell you any more about this project.

Another project I am working on is the Pink Zebra. This is my easy pick up and put down project, great for snatching little bits of sewing here and there, waiting for the bus (but not on it, that makes me sick) waiting for the concert to start, whenever.

I carry it around in this jewelry  case.

which has a multitude of pockets, some of them removable.

At this point I have one eye finished, and the other is well on it's way, then there are two more flowers to embroider and I can assemble it all together.

Slowly I am getting better at embroidering eyes!

Thoughts on Pattern Envelope Backs

While the cover is what grabs our attention, the back of the envelope is an important part of the pattern, often giving us more "meaty" info after the cover image grab our attention.

Things you often find on the envelope back include:
Material list with suggested fabric types
Yardage amounts needed
Size charts
Written description of pattern.
Secondary illustrations

So for this post I pulled out patterns from my stash and took pictures of the envelope backs. The patterns are clothing and craft related, all in one post.

Once again I am only reviewing the content and layout of the pattern covers and not the actual patterns themselves.
Also some pattern makers have/may have/possibly will change the format of their pattern envelopes.

Lets start with the "Big Three" again, this time using Butterick 3721 as our example.

 Butterick is a "standard" size pattern envelope from the big three, which are roughly the size of a letter size paper folded in half.
The flap has the pattern number (twice) and size chart.

This pattern is called "Men's Historical Costume" and then described using style and fit descriptions.
Notions and fabrics are listed, and yardage amounts are on a chart.
Since this is a big pattern company it is also written in Spanish.
At the bottom of the envelop are the "flat" illustrations of the garments made with this pattern (coat and vest)

This is the format that most people are familiar with since they are readily available in all chain (and many independent) fabric stores.
Good points about this back
Bilingual (though that does effectively halve the amount of space that can be used.)
The flap is not hiding any data when it is folded out.
Issues I see with the back
"Historical costume" is not very descriptive about era, but that is what we normally get from the big three, they are not big on historical accuracy.
When Flap is folded in, the sizing chart is not visible.



Next up is Folkwear
This is pattern 211 Two Middies C 1980, my copy is an older one, so it may not be what Folkwear looks like today.
It is a large envelope (to hold letter size paper) and my flap is missing, so I can't tell you what info was there, if I had to guess I would say the pattern number.
On the left is the description, giving some historical data (1920's) and also saying that the middies are for both genders.A skirt pattern is also included, even though the pattern is tittled Two Middies.
Then there is a view of the back of the garments.
Last is the notions list
On the right is the sizing chart, which doesn't use measurement, but relies on standard sizing.
Then a yardage chart
Finished measurements are given and last is the Suggested Fabrics.

Good points about this back
Large illustrations of the back views 
The flap is not hiding any data when it is folded out.
History!

Issues I see with the back
No flat drawing of the front view.
Why is the suggested fabrics AFTER the yardage chart?

The one copy of an Ageless Patterns that I have was apparently sold in a plastic bag instead of paper envelope. What passes for the envelope cover is a piece of card-stock which serves as both front AND back covers.
It also serves as instructions.
Pattern number is at the upper left
A size chart is at the top,  then the pattern pieces are numbered.
Yardage is given as a range, since this is a multi-sized pattern. Seam allowance width is noted, then come the sewing instructions which reads more like the period description (I believe from Harpers Bazar?)


Good points about this back
Size chart is right there at the top.
Pattern pieces are listed, named and numbered.
Historical Description (though no source is cited)
Suggested fabrics is given. (drilling and a modern equivalent)

Issues I see with the back
You can't see it in the plastic bag with the pattern behind the "cover"
Is this is all the instructions there is? (mine is a used copy)

Kannik's Korner

I have a few of these in my collection, photographed is KK4303 Men's Trousers 1790-1810 which was sold in a plastic bag. I have an older pattern of theirs that was sold as a large paper envelope, the backside of that envelope was blank! (Remember what I said about pattern makers changing formats)

The pattern front is actually half of a Tabloid sheet of paper 11X17" and forms their instructions, so this isn't really a back cover, but it is what you see on the back, along with the pattern pieces.

This is the start of the Historical Documentation.

Good points about this back
Title, date, pattern number are right up top where they are not buried by the tissue pattern in the bag.

Issues I see with the back
No size chart, yardage chart, or other info that one would expect on the envelope back. In fact that info is a few pages in, after all the lovely historical information.

Laughing Moon
This pattern #109 is in the same envelope size as the Big Three.
On the flap is the size chart.
On the left is the title followed by the flat illustration of the garments included in this pattern then a description with some historical info which leads right into suggested materials and notions.
On the right is the yardage chart follwed by some more notions, last is the pattern makers info.

Good points about this back
Flats on the front and back view of the included patterns
Some historical info (more with the instructions)
Issues I see with the back
When Flap is folded in, the sizing chart is not visible.  When the flap is out, other information is blocked.
The way the historical info runs into the suggested fabrics could lead to some confusion.

 Rocking Horse Farm

This is #153 Waistcoat 1790-1820
Letter size paper in the horizontal format (Cover is in the more usual portrait orientation.) sold in plastic bag.

This pattern back is a bit unusual in that it tells you how many of each pattern piece to cut and seam allowance, those are normally found in the instructions.(The instructions are just the backside of this page.)
Good points about this back
Illustration (same as on front)
Some historical info (more with the instructions)
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.

Issues I see with the back
No size chart (it is on the front)

J. P. Ryan

This is the waistcoat pattern, and a used copy, the pattern is not numbered, J. P. Ryan may have given it a number now. Letter size paper sold in a plastic bag.
This pattern was sold i n single sizes and the size in this pattern was highlighted.
A bit of historical description and then a size chart, followed by fabric requirements and notions. Last is suggested fabrics.

Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
Some historical info
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.
Issues I see with the back
I would have loved to have seen a back view of the garments as none was on the cover front.

Truly Victorian
This is TV456 1856 Gathered Dress as is says right at the top on the pattern back. The pattern back is Letter size paper sold in a plastic bag. The cover is Legal sized and folds over the bottom to cover the back.
Underneath the fold over flap is the pattern makers info, so no important info is really hidden.
Starts off with historical info, then yardage requirements and notions, last is their unique sizing chart.


Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
Some historical info
Yardage, notions and suggested materials are listed.
Their sizing chart is LOVELY
The fold over flap is a unique feature to TV patterns

Issues I see with the back
A small illustration would have been a nice addition.

Now to will leave the world of costume patterns and take a look at the craft patterns

Smallworks

Dragon pattern
Printed on letter sized paper
Tools and Materials list on the left
Tips  are included

Good points about this back
Large font is easy to read.
tips for making your dragon unique

Issues I see with the back
No yardage requirements listed (in instructions)







Marilyn Halcomb is an Australian designer whose patterns may be purchased at Dollmakers Journey and other places.
Since this is of Australian publication the paper size is different from American Leter, it is closer to 8 1/4 X 11 3/4" this pattern was sold folded in half, so that one sheet formed the front and back the back half contains materials list.

Good points about this back
Materials list and legal disclaimers

Issues I see with the back
Finished size of dragon is not mentioned (not on front either)

Elan patterns are available at SewSassy and other bra making suppliers.

This is B540, I am looking at.
The pattern cover front and back are printed on one letter sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back.
It is printed in a different orientation from the front, so that you must rotate to read the back when you flip it over.
Topis the pattern maker in the upper left, the upper right has the pattern number.
Next is the pattern description, then the materials list and yardage requirements.
Last is pattern makers contact info and legal disclaimers.

Good points about this back
Materials list, yardage amounts and legal disclaimers. pretty much everything one would want.

Issues I see with the back
No secondary images

Silver Lining Originals is a quilt pattern company Published by Make it Easy Sewing & Crafts, A Quilt Woman.com Company

This is the Lap-Lop Bunnies, a paper pieced quilt pattern
The pattern cover front and back are printed on one letter sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back, inside of a plastic bag.
Top is a description, next come fabric yardages, since this is a quilt pattern, the use of quilting cottons is assumed, so the only fabric suggestions is in color.
Lower left is the publishers information, lower right is the designers information, then a barcode.
Copyright is on the bottom


Good points about this back
Everything one could expect and a barcode!

Issues I see with the back 
None for a quilt patten.

Needlesongs by Carol Bruce is a quilt pattern company
This is the Dream Castles Fusible Applique pattern that I am looking at.
The pattern back is half of a letter sized sheet in a plastic bag.
Starts off with pattern title, then description, which includes size. (Which was not on front.)
Materials list and yardages, stating "100% cotton, prewashed and ironed."
Copyright and contact information is on the bottom.

Good points about this back
Everything one could expect, well laid out.

Issues I see with the back 
None for a quilt pattern




Judi's Dolls by Judi Ward
This time I am looking at 9-12 Month Size Baby.

The pattern cover front and back are printed on one legal sized sheet, which is folded in half to make the front and back. The front has a color photo and the pattern is copyrighted 1978.

Starts off with the Materials list, which includes yardages and then runs into the description

Good points about this back
Materials list and yardage is there as is a description of the pattern. (sized to fit real baby clothes)

Issues I see with the back 
There isn't a space between the materials list and the description, it all flows together down the page.

In conclusion

And there we have it, I have reviewed costume, and craft patterns. I think I have a better idea of what is important to me, and how much format means to a buyer.

In the end, What goes on the pattern back is what the maker feels is important, What do you as a purchaser want to see on the back?

balancing steps

In my attempts to find the balance in my life, I have been cleaning my living quarters, I have a small area to call mine, essentially just a 6 foot table for my computer and printer, and another one for my sewing machine. I have a 4 foot table in an L shape with my sewing table, but that isn’t supposed to be a permanent fixture.

I have also looked at my daily schedule. Morning is getting the husband and child off to school, then I have 2 hours before picking up the child, which I normally allow the other children to spend playing or watching PBS.
Then comes lunch and homework, and if I am lucky the children will play nicely together and I can have some more time to work on my things. Lately that hasn’t been the case. I think we will chalk that up to Cabin Fever.
My husband doesn’t come home at the same time everyday and I am not always privy to the comings and goings of the others in my household.

Non School days are of course another beast all together, I often am not even on my computer on the weekends, which means that I have a lot of “catching up” to do on the internet on Monday. I need to weed out some of these time sucks by unsubscribing and the like.






So I have 2 hours a day to "work" hmm that isn't much, so I need to FOCUS which is why I put up the poll yesterday.





So I will be spending the rest of the month doing 3 things
1. cleaning and organizing, scheduling my life a bit better.
2. prioritizing my projects, and finishing up those that are on the machine.
3. setting myself up to do which ever pattern comes out on top from the poll.

Finding the Balance

I know that I have fallen off the blogging wagon for a few weeks, the Holidays and getting back to routine will do that.

Source: vintage-ephemera.blogspot.se via Corsetra on Pinterest

Tightrope walker Photographed by Eulenstein of Leipzig.

But I have other issues as well, and without getting too much into my personal life, I will just say that I am having issue finding the balance between being a GOOD mom (something I am trying to work on, I need to be better for my children) the general house chores, my personal projects, and the business adventure.

Source: metmuseum.org via Corsetra on Pinterest

Wooden Box with Bronze Balance Scale 500-600 made in Byzantine Egypt Metropolitan Museum 14.2.2a-e

One of the issues is when I waste time on the Internet. I know lots of people suffer from this too. FB and Pinterest are two of my biggest time sucks.

I have a stack of half finished projects, a running list of things I want to do, an even longer list of things I need to do. I just need to find my place, my groove. So I am asking YOU to help keep me on track. I will be posting a time line of things and a deadline for them, I am calling out for some people to poke and prod me on those items if you do not see regular updates.

Welcome 2013

New Year, New Post!

Okay so I am a day late, it being the 2nd and all, but today was the day that we got back to normal routines of school and the like here in my home. Boy does morning come early!

I am not posting any holiday gifts I got, because I honestly didn't get much, most effort went to the children, as it should.

I do not have an interesting list of what I made to share, as I moved earlier in the year and then spent several months getting a routine set up in our new location. I moved away from my costuming buddy, and the events we would attend together.

Mock tunics for 12thnight

I did make the 1810 Corset Elastique, which I hope to make into a pattern

But no other costume sewing really got finished.

Halloween was not much of an effort Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3, but I can report that they have been used and loved well, so that is good.

I did some craft sewing, making a doll and a pony. I also sewed holiday gifts, though those posts are not ready.

Nor am I posting a list of intended projects, or joining any challenges. Though this does look cool

No, I plan to put more effort into Corsetra Designs, and I HOPE to have a corset pattern in testing phase by the end of the year. I also hope to have a craft pattern ready for sale.

I am however discontinuing Etsy Monday. Though I do intend to get 1 new item up in the shop every month on a Monday. The Etsy shop is my only source of income at this time, no one wants to hear a sob story, but there it is.

So thank you to for reading this blog, I have some exciting things planed, including free patterns, and maybe even a giveaway!

Musings on Pattern Testing

I recently Read the FIRST edition of Publish Your Patterns by Nancy Restuccia
I found it to be a very well written book and I learn things that I hadn't even thought of. I know I will be rereading it again.
I wish I had know there was a second edition as this 10 year old book could really use some updating. Shame on me for not reading the Amazon listings better!
The book is geared more towards quilt and craft patterns, but garment pattern makers will gain some insights from it as well.

But this post isn't a review of a book, if you want reviews, go to Amazon.

I want to talk about pattern testing.
I have participated in pattern testing for other doll patern makers, and have tried to get some of my earlier patterns tested, so I have already stuck my toes in the water.

Pattern Testing
What is it, and why would you want to?
Pattern testing is when a pattern maker send their patterns out to testers who then make up the pattern. They test the pattern’s accuracy, it’s sizing, the instructions and over all appeal. This is done before the final publishing to get all the “bugs” out.

Why should patterns be tested?
Simple answer, to make sure there isn’t anything wrong with it.
The longer reason is that if a pattern maker doesn’t test a pattern and discovers after it is on the market (often from customers) that there is an issue, the pattern maker then has several bad patterns on their hands and in the hands of customers. It is simply wasted money. Mistakes will happen, pattern pieces may get left out, grading may be done incorrectly leading to seams not lining up, Instructions may be full of grammatical errors. Bad news spreads faster than good news. And a bad pattern can be damaging for a pattern maker’s business.

Can you spot the issue with this pattern? A screen shot of one of mine.

What is a pattern maker looking for in a tester?
A pattern maker will want a variety of people to test their patterns, from beginners to advance sewist, from those who are familiar with the type of pattern to those who are not. In the case of clothing, testers in a wide range of sizes and body type.

What is the role of a pattern tester?
The role of the pattern tester is to provide GOOD, CLEAR, USABLE feedback. A single sentence “the pattern was ___.” Is not what the pattern maker is looking for, nor is the pattern maker looking for the tester to rewrite the pattern.
Pattern testers should finish testing the pattern within the agreed upon timeframe. If an extension is needed, they should inform the pattern maker and request one. If the pattern tester is not able to complete, they should notify the pattern maker as a courtesy.

What should the pattern tester be looking for when testing the pattern?
It would be a good idea to have a notepad handy while testing a pattern. Suggested points to write down include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Where the directions were confusing, even if a second reading cleared up the issue.
• Was the yardage listed too little, too much, just enough?
• Where the supplies easy to source, offer up alternatives if appropriate.
• ANY deviations the pattern tester made from the pattern or instructions. Used a fabric that wasn’t recommended, cut a piece on the bias, used a stripe instead of a solid.
• Any alterations on a clothing pattern to fit
• Spelling or grammatical errors
• Seams that don’t line up
• Pattern cover appeal: photo, layout, text, price point.
• Was the list of supplies complete, or did the instructions call for something not listed? Was something listed not used?
• Was the pattern actually at the recommended level? Did it feel more advanced or more beginning level than it was stated as.
• Were all the pattern pieces there, did they have all their appropriate markings? Did the seams line up like they were supposed to?
• Was the garment pattern to size listed? If alterations were made to fit the pattern, what were they and were they common fitting methods to this individual (full bust, etc.)?
• How long did it take to make? Were there reasons why it took that length of time (embellishments, hand sewn, etc.)

What NOT to do when testing a pattern.
Reply to the pattern maker with a list of spelling and grammatical changes ONLY, having never made the pattern up.
Share the pattern. It is after all a TEST pattern and the final produced pattern may have several changes made to it.
Ignore the instructions all together and just make it up any way they want. The instructions are also part of the pattern to be tested.
Take the pattern and never give any feed back or acknowledgement to the pattern maker. The pattern was sent out to be tested, not taken.

What a pattern tester may expect upon sending their review to the pattern maker.
Thanks.
Possibly more questions, to clarify any issues
Opportunity to test more patterns.
Invitation to share photos of the tested pattern.
Perks.

The responsibility of the pattern maker after the pattern has been tested.
Follow up with testers should they fall behind the review deadline.
Fix the mistakes.
Be polite to impolite testers.
Explain why the pattern was written the way it was if a different construction method was suggested by a tester.
Thank and reward testers appropriately.
Maintain good, clear, and polite communication.
Test the pattern a second time if needed.

This is just the beginnings of my thoughts on pattern testing ad at this point I am not ready to send any patterns out, but stay tuned.
I currently have a small list of people who will be asked first to test patterns, next group will be those who follow me on Facebook, and the last will be a public call here on this blog.